Eight kinds of flooring work, all done by our own crew. Read through what each one involves, then call and tell us about your room.
Call Now: (680) 269-8638Every flooring installation we do starts the same way: we look at the subfloor, check it for flatness and moisture, and decide what prep is needed before anything new goes down. Most floors that fail early fail because that step was skipped. Below is the full list of what we do, with a short note on the materials and methods for each.
We install solid hardwood floors and engineered hardwood in strip, plank and herringbone layouts. Solid wood is nailed down over a plywood subfloor, while engineered boards can be nailed, glued to concrete or floated over a quality underlayment. We let the wood acclimate in your home, check moisture readings on both the boards and the subfloor, and leave the right expansion gap at every wall.
Porcelain and ceramic tile for bathrooms, kitchens, entryways and laundry rooms, from small mosaics to large-format plank tile. We tear out down to a sound base, add cement board or an uncoupling membrane where needed, and set tile in thinset with full coverage so nothing sounds hollow later. Grout lines are kept even, edges are cut clean, and wet areas get the waterproofing they need.
Laminate gives you the look of wood with a hard, scratch-resistant top layer at a lower material cost. We install it as a floating floor over a level subfloor with a foam or cork underlayment, which also cuts down on sound for the neighbors below. Seams are staggered properly, transitions are trimmed neatly, and we keep laminate out of spots where standing water is likely.
Wall-to-wall carpet installation for bedrooms, living rooms, hallways and stairs, including loop pile, cut pile and Berber styles. We put down new pad and tack strip, power-stretch the carpet so it does not ripple, and hide seams away from foot traffic. On staircases we wrap or waterfall each step and keep the pattern lined up from top to bottom.
Luxury vinyl plank and luxury vinyl tile in wood and stone looks, in click-lock and glue-down versions. Vinyl is thin, so the floor underneath has to be smooth; we patch and skim-coat low spots and sand down high ones first. It is a good fit for rentals, busy kitchens and homes with pets.
When the old floor is past saving, we take it all out: flooring, old adhesive, tack strip and any damaged underlayment. We repair or replace subfloor panels, screw down loose spots to stop squeaks, and level the surface before the new floor goes in. Debris is bagged and hauled off, so you are left with one clean room instead of a pile in the hallway.
Hardwood floor refinishing brings worn, scratched or discolored wood back to bare, even boards with a fresh finish. We sand in stages with dust-controlled equipment, fill gaps and nail holes, then apply stain if you want a new color and several coats of polyurethane. For floors that are only dull, a screen-and-recoat can often do the job without full sanding.
Rigid core vinyl (SPC and WPC), waterproof laminate and porcelain tile for rooms that see water. We check concrete slabs for moisture, add a vapor barrier where the floor calls for one, and seal the perimeter in wet areas. It is the floor we suggest most often for basements, bathrooms, laundry rooms and kitchens.
This is one of the first questions we get about hardwood floors. The honest answer depends on how much wood is left above the tongue and what is going on underneath. Here is how we decide.
A refinish costs less than a new floor and keeps original wood in place, which matters in older New York apartments and brownstones.
Sometimes the answer is both: replace a damaged section with matching boards, then refinish the whole room so it blends in.
Every room puts a different kind of stress on a floor. These are the notes we give people when they are deciding, based on what holds up in New York apartments and houses.
| Room | Good choices | Our notes |
|---|---|---|
| Kitchens | Porcelain tile, luxury vinyl, waterproof flooring, engineered hardwood | Spills, dropped pans and a lot of standing. Waterproof vinyl is forgiving; tile lasts longest. Wood works if spills are wiped up fast. |
| Bathrooms | Porcelain or ceramic tile, waterproof vinyl | Water gets everywhere. We use a waterproof membrane under tile and skip hardwood and standard laminate here. |
| Basements | Waterproof flooring, rigid core vinyl, tile | Concrete pulls moisture up from the ground. We test the slab and use a vapor barrier. Solid hardwood does not belong below grade. |
| Bedrooms | Carpet, hardwood floors, laminate | Low traffic and no water. Carpet is warm and quiet for upstairs neighbors; hardwood is easy to clean and adds value. |
Hallways and stairs see the most wear in any home. Carpet with a dense pad or hardwood with a tough finish both hold up well there.
Yes. Removal and haul-away are part of most jobs. We also move most furniture out of the room, though we ask you to clear out small items, closets and anything fragile.
Sometimes. Vinyl and laminate can often go over flat, well-bonded tile or vinyl. Carpet always comes up first, and hardwood is usually best on a clean subfloor. We decide after we see it.
A single room of vinyl or carpet is often done in a day. Tile and hardwood take longer because of prep, cure times and finishing. We give you a schedule before we start.
Many New York buildings want work scheduled with the super and done during set hours. Tell us your building’s rules when you call and we will plan around them.
Yes. We will tell you what suits the room, your budget and how you live, and we use quality materials from suppliers we trust.
Still have a question? Ask us directly.
Call Now: (680) 269-8638